Unveiling the Power of AHAs and BHAs in Skincare

Understanding AHAs and BHAs: Benefits and Usage Guide

You may have encountered the terms "AHAs" and "BHAs" while scrolling through social media or deciding what skin product to buy. As popular ingredients in the beauty world, Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are celebrated for their transformative effects on the skin.

In this article, we delve into the origins, applications, and benefits of these skincare superheroes, as well as explore whether they can be used in tandem to achieve optimal results.

Nature's Skin Smoothers: Understanding Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a family of water-soluble organic acids derived from natural sources such as fruits, milk, and sugar cane. They operate by gently exfoliating the skin through a process called desquamation, where they dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin's surface. This process accelerates the shedding of dull, dead cells, revealing smoother, brighter, and more even-toned skin underneath.

Common AHAs include:

1. Glycolic Acid: This AHA comes from sugar cane and is known for its ability to penetrate deep into the skin, helping to improve skin texture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

2. Lactic Acid: Extracted from sour milk, Lactic Acid is gentler than Glycolic Acid and is suitable for sensitive skin. It exfoliates, hydrates, and helps reduce the appearance of age spots and wrinkles.

3. Citric Acid: Derived from citrus fruits, Citric acid is a mild AHA that brightens the skin and evens out skin tone. Additionally, its astringent properties help tighten and tone the skin.

4. Malic Acid: Derived from apples and pears. It is known for its gentle exfoliating properties, which help to slough off dead skin cells, revealing smoother and more radiant skin. Additionally, Malic Acid can improve skin hydration, helping to maintain healthy moisture levels. This leads to enhanced skin texture and a youthful appearance.

5. Tartaric Acid: Found in grapes. It offers exfoliating and brightening benefits to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products designed to promote a more even and glowing complexion. Tartaric Acid is often paired with other AHAs to boost their effectiveness, providing a synergistic approach to achieving optimal results.

The Journey of AHAs: From Nature to Your Skincare Routine

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are versatile skincare ingredients that begin their journey in various natural sources and are transformed through fascinating processes.

1. Natural Sources: AHAs originate from various sources such as sugar cane, sour milk, citrus fruits, apples, and grapes.

2. Fermentation Process: Certain AHAs are produced through fermentation, where microorganisms convert sugars into beneficial acids.

3. Synthesis Methods: AHAs can also be synthesised using chemical and biotechnological methods, like creating glycolic acid from formaldehyde and synthesis gas.

4. Purification and Formulation: After extraction or synthesis, AHAs are purified to remove impurities and then formulated into skincare products such as serums, creams, and exfoliants for optimal performance and compatibility with the skin.

Incorporating Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) into your skincare routine can offer numerous benefits that target various skin concerns, such as:

1. Exfoliation: AHAs gently remove the buildup of dead skin cells on the surface, revealing smoother and brighter skin. This process helps improve overall skin texture and tone.

2. Acne Prevention: By removing the accumulation of dead skin cells, AHAs help unclog pores, which reduces the likelihood of acne breakouts and blackheads.

3. Reduced Signs of Ageing: AHAs stimulate collagen production, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

4. Enhanced Product Absorption: Removing the layer of dead skin cells helps other skincare products penetrate the skin more effectively, maximising their benefits.

5. Targeting Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots: AHAs can help minimise the appearance of dark spots, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage or acne scarring.

6. Improved Skin Hydration: AHAs can help enhance skin hydration by increasing moisture retention, leading to softer, more supple skin.

   
   

It's essential to choose the right AHA for your specific skin concerns and to introduce it gradually into your skincare regimen to avoid any possible irritation. Always remember to apply sunscreen, as AHAs can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun.

The Oil-Soluble Skin Savers: Understanding Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHAs)

BHAs are a type of organic acid primarily derived from natural sources, particularly plants such as willow bark, wintergreen leaves, and sugar beets. Their oil-soluble nature enables them to penetrate the skin's lipid barrier and reach deeper layers, effectively exfoliating and unclogging pores. This makes them highly effective for treating acne and other skin issues caused by excess oil and clogged pores. Unlike AHAs, which are water-soluble, BHAs can dissolve in oil, allowing them to target and break down the oil and sebum that contribute to acne and blackheads. This characteristic makes BHAs the preferred choice for individuals with oily or combination skin, as well as those prone to acne and congestion.

Common BHAs include:

1. Salicylic Acid: Derived from willow bark, Salicylic Acid is the most popular BHA. It's known for its ability to penetrate the skin deeply and dissolve excess oil, making it a powerful tool in treating acne and preventing future breakouts. Salicylic Acid can also help reduce inflammation and redness associated with acne, as well as exfoliate dead skin cells to improve overall skin texture.

2. Beta-Hydroxybutyric Acid: This BHA, while less common, can also be used to exfoliate the skin and promote cell turnover, leading to smoother and clearer skin. It's sometimes used in skincare products as an alternative to Salicylic Acid, especially for those with sensitive skin or those looking to avoid potential irritation.

3. Betaine Salicylate: This BHA is derived from sugar beets, and commonly used in Korean skincare products. It's known as a gentler alternative to Salicylic Acid, offering similar exfoliating benefits. It's great for those dealing with mild acne and sensitive skin, thanks to its lower strength compared to Salicylic Acid.

The Journey of BHAs: From Plants to Skincare Essentials

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are potent skincare ingredients that originate in nature and undergo various processes to become essential components of our daily skincare routines.

1. Natural Sources: BHAs are derived from plants like willow bark and sugar beets, which contain the active compounds needed for their powerful exfoliating properties.

2. Extraction Process: BHAs are extracted from their plant sources using solvents that isolate and separate the desired compounds from the rest of the plant matter.

3. Purification and Standardisation: Once extracted, BHAs are purified and standardised to ensure consistent potency and concentration levels in the final skincare products.

4. Formulation: Purified BHAs are combined with other ingredients to create various skincare products, such as cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturisers, ensuring effective delivery to the skin while maximising the benefits of each ingredient.

Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) offer several benefits for the skin, here are some key advantages of incorporating BHAs into your skincare routine:

1. Exfoliation: BHAs are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deep into the pores, effectively exfoliating the skin by loosening and removing dead skin cells, dirt, and excess oil. This process helps to unclog pores, prevent acne breakouts, and promote smoother skin texture.

2. Acne Treatment: BHAs are particularly effective in treating acne and blemishes due to their ability to penetrate deep into the skin's layers where acne-causing bacteria and excess oil accumulate. By clearing out pores and reducing inflammation, BHAs can help to minimise the appearance of acne and prevent future breakouts.

3. Anti-inflammatory Properties: BHAs have anti-inflammatory and soothing properties that can calm irritated skin and reduce redness. This makes them beneficial for individuals with acne-prone or sensitive skin conditions like rosacea.

4. Oil Control: BHAs help regulate oil production in the skin, making them suitable for oily and combination skin types. By reducing excess sebum, BHAs can prevent the formation of blackheads and whiteheads, leading to clearer pores and a more balanced complexion.

5. Improvement in Skin Tone and Texture: Regular use of BHAs can promote cell turnover and renewal, leading to a more even skin tone and smoother texture. They can also help fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots caused by sun damage or acne scars.

6. Enhanced Product Absorption: By exfoliating the skin and removing dead cells, BHAs enhance the absorption of other skincare products, such as serums and moisturisers. This allows active ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin and deliver their benefits more effectively.

   
   

When incorporating BHAs into your skincare routine, start with a low concentration to assess tolerance and gradually increase frequency. Always follow with sunscreen during the day due to increased skin sensitivity.

Using AHAs and BHAs Together: Benefits and Tips

Combining AHAs and BHAs can create a balanced approach to skincare. AHAs work on the skin's surface to refine and brighten, while BHAs go deeper to target congestion and prevent breakouts. This dual action can result in more comprehensive exfoliation and a clearer complexion overall.

However, it's important to approach the use of AHAs and BHAs together with caution:

1. Start Slowly: Begin by introducing one product at a time and gradually incorporate the other once your skin adjusts. This helps minimise the risk of irritation or over-exfoliation.

2. Alternate Days: If using AHAs and BHAs in separate products, alternate their usage on different days to give your skin time to recover between exfoliation sessions.

3. Monitor Sensitivity: Keep an eye on how your skin responds. If you experience redness, dryness, or increased sensitivity, reduce the frequency of use or switch to lower concentrations.

4. Hydration: Exfoliation can sometimes lead to temporary dryness. Ensure you follow up with a moisturiser to keep your skin hydrated and balanced.

When used correctly and tailored to your skin's needs, incorporating both AHAs and BHAs into your daily skincare routine can provide significant benefits. Many people find that this combination helps to refine pores, improve overall skin clarity, and maintain a smoother, more youthful appearance. For personalised advice on how to integrate AHAs and BHAs into your skincare regimen, consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional who can recommend the best products and usage schedule based on your skin type and concerns.

KOAAH’s Top Picks for AHA’s & BHA’s

Here are the skincare products we've been using over the past year—these recommendations come from our personal experience and aren't influenced by sponsorships.

AHA 

Caudalie Vinoperfect Dark Spot Correcting Glycolic Night Cream: Formulated with Glycolic Acid and vine sap-derived viniferine, this cream targets dark spots and uneven skin tone while you sleep.

REN Clean Skincare Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic: This gentle tonic features Lactic Acid and willow bark extract. It effectively exfoliates and brightens the skin. It's formulated for all skin types, including sensitive skin, making it a versatile option for those looking to improve skin texture and tone without irritation.

BHA

Caudalie Vinopure Purifying Gel Cleanser: Infused with natural Salicylic Acid from the wintergreen plant, this cleanser purifies and balances oily and combination skin. It effectively removes impurities, reduces excess oil, and prevents breakouts while leaving skin refreshed and clarified. Perfect for daily use, it promotes clearer and healthier-looking skin with its gentle gel formula.

Here's a step-by-step breakdown of how we incorporate these AHAs and BHAs into our daily skincare routine:

AM Routine

1. In the morning, we cleanse our face with the Caudalie Vinopure Gel Cleanser.

2. After, we apply our serums, moisturiser and SPF to hydrate and protect our skin from sun damage.

PM Routine

1. Come nighttime, we cleanse our face with the same face cleanser.

2. We then apply the REN AHA Tonic.

3. Followed by our serums, and finally, the Caudalie Dark Spot Night Cream.

Important Notes

This routine has worked well for our skin without causing irritation, but everyone's skin is unique. It's essential to consult with a skincare professional to determine the best approach for your specific skin type and concerns.

Conclusion

AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta-Hydroxy Acids) form a dynamic duo in skincare routines. By harnessing their unique properties—AHAs for exfoliation and BHAs for deep pore cleansing—you can tailor their use to optimise your skincare regimen, promoting smoother, clearer skin and addressing specific concerns like acne or dullness.